Everything you Need to Know about Chewing Coca

If you’re traveling to one of the Andean countries such as Peru or Bolivia you’re bound to run in to coca. Coca is famous as the plant used to make cocaine, but its leaves are far more commonly used as a legal, chewable stimulant.

Coca grows as a large bush with the leaves harvested for medicine, religious ceremony, and their special ingredient – cocaine. The raw leaves are chemically distinct from cocaine though – which require processing and a chemical reaction to produce cocaine in appreciable amounts. The raw leaves only have half a perfect of naturally occurring cocaine, which is well below the limit to not be addictive or produce Robin Williams style, manic outbursts.

The leaves do still produce a natural sort of high when chewed – a steady rise in mood and energy that cures fatigue, hunger, and altitude sickness. It’s sort of like sipping a double espresso, without the jitteriness or sudden urge to shit.

It’s sort of like sipping a double espresso, without the jitteriness or sudden urge to shit.

Coca is perhaps most famous as the namesake and key ingredient in Coca-Cola. Until the 1930s actual cocaine was included as an ingredient in the drink. Now coca extract is still used in the secret formula for its feel-good effects (and let’s be honest, the Coca part isn’t all that secret, you just didn’t know what it meant).

Coca is also sometimes confused with cacao (ka-cow) – the basis for chocolate. These are entirely different plants. Coca has nothing to do with chocolate.


Where to Find it


The best place to find fresh coca leaves is in a local market (assuming you’re in Bolivia, Peru, or Colombia). Look for the big sacks full of green leaves.

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You can buy an individual sized bag for 1 Peruvian sole ($0.30).

One bag is more than enough to share between 3 people for a few days.


How to Chew Coca Leaves


First of all, you don’t “chew” coca leaves. It’s more of a wadding-up-with-your-tongue action.

In Quechua there are two words for chew: one having the common English meaning, and another describing the action used for coca leaves. The “coca chew” is a process that rolls the leaves into a ball and gets them wet with saliva. You should be using all tongue and no teeth. You’re not eating the leaves, you’re sucking on them.

To get started, pick out a whole leaf that still looks waxy and not dry.

Hold the leaf by the stem and place the broad part into your mouth. Bite down at the end of the leaf and pick the stem off to discard. Continue this process with about 20 leaves.

As you bite each leaf into your mouth roll it with your tongue as you wad it with the others. Once you have all the leaves in your mouth stick it between your cheek and gums, where it will stay while you swallow the juice.

Swallowing the coca juice is where you will absorb most of the coca so don’t try to spit it out. Andean people have been using it for thousands of years as a medicinal plant, it’s not gonna hurt you. You can leave the wad in for about an hour.

If you do happen to chomp down on the leaves you’ll notice a light numbing of your tongue. This won’t harm you, but talking like Daffy Duck isn’t really the intended result.


Coca Tea (Mate de coca)


If chewing is a bit much for you the coca tea is also rejuvenating. Coca is as commonplace as coffee in Europe – you will find coca tea waiting for you at most hotels and guest houses, right along side familiar packets like chamomile and black tea.

The effects from the tea are more gradual and mild than chewing the leaves directly but it’s also a more convenient option. The taste is more plant-like than any green tea you’re had to but it’s not unpleasant.


Drug Tests & Legality


By all accounts – consuming coca tea will show up on a drug test. Same for chewing the leaves. Although you’re consuming about 1/10th the organic alkaloid present in a line of coke, that’s enough to test positive on a drug test.

The leaves and tea are also illegal outside of Andean countries. Don’t try to bring them back. Apparently the coca tea is allowed in the United States if it has been “decocainized,” but what the hell is the point in that? If you want to drink castrated tea just soak some tree leaves in your mug.

 

Machu Picchu will Blow Your Fucking Mind

The hype is for real – Machu Picchu will blow your fucking mind.

I’ve seen the Taj, sat in the Colosseum, climbed up the ancient steps of Tikal and the massive Pyramid of the Sun – but Machu Picchu takes the cake. No contest.

Temple walls made of massive, mortar-less, perfectly fitted stones stand strong 500 years after construction because they were engineered to be goddamn earthquake proof.

Water still trickles through the original aqueducts of the city as if the inhabitants had just stepped away. Temple walls made of massive, mortar-less, perfectly fitted stones stand strong 500 years after construction because they were engineered to be goddamn earthquake proof. While standing next to these stones thin clouds float by in a slow, ever-changing procession, reinforcing the ethereal power of the landscape. The rarefied air in this ancient cloud forest is thin but smells sweet. Crisp air combined with the surrounding horizon of even taller peaks makes stepping into Machu Picchu a dizzying, awe-inspiring, and powerful experience.

Machu Picchu was a university in the clouds, a religious Mecca, and an astronomical headquarters. It was a permanent city of 800 Inca nestled at a height of over 7,900 feet in the Peruvian Andes. Twice a year, the sun still rises between the sacred mountain peaks and the beautiful Sun Gate on the seasonal solstices. Surrounded by peaks of even greater magnitude it’s hard not to be overcome by a profound sense of reverence for the ruins, their settings, and the delicate harmony of the two.

The other thing you need to know about Machu Picchu is that it means “Old Mountain”, but if you accidentally leave off a “c” in Pichu it means “Old Penis.”

This is important, as you wouldn’t want to be caught tweeting that you “can’t wait to see the Old Penis;” something our guide kindly warns us about.

The trail we hiked was the Inca’s original trade route, their equivalent of an interstate between cities. Along the way we passed countless smaller settlements and ruins, the ancient way stations and Quik Stops on the route to Machu Picchu. Arriving via a 2 day hike on the original Inca trail, the first site of Machu Picchu reduced my small group to tears, new found spirituality, and euphoria. For a group composed of a former U.S. Marine, an aerospace engineer, and an experienced travel photographer – that’s saying something. The trek wouldn’t have been complete or even possible without the expert knowledge of our guide, Alex.

A true man of the forest, Alex gleefully admitted his love for flowers, delighted over every insect we encountered, and was genuinely at one with nature and his surroundings. There was no false sense of separation, elitism, or superiority over nature for him. Alex knew he was one part of the greater ecosystem, and a protector of the earth to which he would one day return. He humbly echoed the teachings of the Inca in his talks and showed us how this philosophy is built into the very blueprint of Machu Picchu itself.

The Inca built around existing features to both supplement and accentuate their natural beauty. Rather than dynamite a natural crack or bulldoze a plateau to make a square, natural existing cracks were now part of their aqueducts. Mountain peaks became sacred seasonal solar checkpoints. Andean caves and crevices became elaborate ceremonial tombs. And as far as mummies go – 167 have been found at Machu Picchu so far. One Hundred and Sixty Seven! For comparison there were precisely zero inside the Great Pyramids of Egypt.

167 mummies have been found at Machu Picchu so far.

So even if you’re well traveled and road weary, or jaded about the manufactured hype for most  places – I say go to Machu Picchu. And go now! The intensifying struggle between UNESCO and the Peruvian government about how many visitors to allow in each day is widely speculated to result in severe restrictions sometime soon.

But for now the doors remain open to this university in the clouds. And the people who visit Machu Picchu are still learning there, as the Inca did centuries ago. Today, something close to 3,000 people still come here to learn and be enlightened every day. The power of Machu Picchu is still alive. The Inca vision of reverence and harmony with mother earth can still be experienced and explored, for now.

Check out how absolutely exhausting the Inca Trail is, and how Chewing Coca Leaves can help get you there.